This excerpt is from a 1903 issue of "Athletics and Outdoor Sports for Women"...and while it may bore some of you, I thought attention to detail, practicality, and modesty was quite fascinating.
Equestrianism
"A great deal has been said and written in regard to the correct dress for the saddle, yet how many women know and practice its two most important laws?-first, to dress plainly and comfortable; second, to look well.
The habit must be well made, well fitted, of correct style, and of best material. Safety skirts should always be worn. There are several different patents for these. One is practically an apron, which on the saddle gives the effect of a skirt; there is no back to it, and the legs are perfectly free and in direct contact with the saddle. This is a very good and safe pattern for hunting and country use, but is most awkward when the rider is dismounted. Another is more like the ordinary habit skirt but with an open seam back of the legs and up around the pommel; this is provided with patent fasteners, permitting it to be closed when the wearer is off the horse, and readily opened predatory to mounting.
The regulation habit is well fitted, single-breasted, with five or six buttons, and made long enough to touch the horse in back. Last spring a single-breasted, long, and somewhat loose coast with a fly front became very popular. Either of these is a sensible style to order…
Covert coats should be made big, and are very smart for outdoor riding. Norfolk jackets look well on slight women and children, and are very comfortable for country use. The heavier cloth you select for the habit, the better it will fit and wear and the longer keep its shape. Whipcords and dark materials are preferable…Khaki, duck, or crash habits are desirable for summer.
A black derby is the correct hat for winter, a plain straw sailor for summer, and sombreros are picturesque for some people in the far, far country. Of late a three-cornered hat has been popular, but it is not generally becoming. The hat should be large enough to set well down on the head and be kept in place by a broad elastic. Hat pins should never be worn; they look bad and are dangerous in case of accident. The hair should be worn plainly, either braided and tied at the neck with a ribbon or coiled securely low on the head.
Riding-boots, for comfort's sake a size larger than everyday shoes, should be of calfskin or patent leather…With summer habits tan boots should be worn or tan leggings over laced tan shoes. The boots, though, are always more comfortable than the leggings. Select your boots from a somewhat mannish last; the very pointed toe and high, narrow heels are no longer in vogue. Gloves should always be heavy, hand-sewed, with one or two clasps, and always a size or two larger than those ordinarily worn.
The underclothes for riding should be as carefully considered as the outer garments. The corset or corset waist should be loose enough for absolute comfort and freedom. Balbriggan drawers, such as boys wear, and socks are best. Stockings should not be used as they often wrinkle up and chafe, and elastics sometimes interfere with the circulation. Over the drawers may be worn with equestrian tights, reaching to the ankle, or breeches. The riding-breeches are made on the style of a man's riding-breeches and of similar material, but care should be taken that the buttons on the cuffs are on the inside of the right leg and on the outside of the left leg. After the tights or breeches are put on, draw on the boots.
Beneath the habit coast should be worn some kind of shirt-waist, and for neckwear I recommend an Ascot stock fastened with an appropriate pin. The linen collar and necktie are also very smart…All jewelry should be avoided…
The under-dressing for riding in the cross saddle should be similar to that for the side saddle. Very baggy riding-breeches and polo-legged boots should be worn. The stiff boot is better than the legging, as it does not show the shape of the leg. The coat should be single-breasted, rather loose fitting, and with quite full and very long skirts, coming below the knee when the wearer is mounted. The coast should be split up the back to allow the skirts to fall each side of the horse, and provided with two tabs which, when the rider is in the saddle, should be secured to a button on each knee. With the skirts of the coast fastened at the knee the whole thigh and upper leg are concealed, and nothing but a smart boot is visible."
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